tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-25242729489038205092024-03-13T16:40:49.324-07:00Nequient In ModeHistorically Inspired Dress and UndressAihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.comBlogger43125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-56828661879520537242012-05-15T10:00:00.000-07:002012-05-15T10:00:04.121-07:00Spoonflower Swatches — Color Wheels<!-- Spoonflower Swatches -- Part 1, Color Wheels -->
<p>There are many projects I keep meaning to post about, and then before I get around to actually doing so, I completely forget. Now that I am jobless (temporarily, hopefully), I may try to catch up on some of the forgotten and neglected posts. So, to start with, <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com">Spoonflower</a>.
<p>Sometime last November Spoonflower held a 'Buy-1-Get-1-Free' deal on Fat Quarters. So, I got motivated to put together a full set of Sylvanian Family clothes to be printed out. That by itself is unrelevant to this blog, but I also had a swatch of some of the exact same designs printed out at <a href="http://fabricondemand.com/">FOD</a>. Spoonflower has a cotton voile and FOD has a polyester voile, so while a direct comparison isn't quite possible, some examination is still useful (and is something I've been meaning to do for awhile). That post will probably come next, however.
<p>Anyway, I figured I may as well print out full fat quarters of a few of my fabric designs while I was at it. I mostly work in <a href="http://www.inkscape.org">Inkscape</a>, and I prefer to work in HSL or CMYK colorspaces, so I made up <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric_items/new?design_id=319104&show_comments=true">a set of a few color wheels</a> and had those printed out.
<figure style='text-align:center;'><figcaption style='font-style:italic;'>Fat Quarter on Arrival</figcaption><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-YkWuPxvQbBc/T6tDTOvaqPI/AAAAAAAAQRM/yIaxMYLwtcQ/s500/IMG_8551.JPG"></figure>
<figure style='text-align:center;'><figcaption style='font-style:italic;'>After Washing and Pressing</figcaption><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eFN7yZsMQEI/T6tC87z0PYI/AAAAAAAAQRE/qyU-rI6K8CI/s500/IMG_0090.JPG"></figure>
<p>Of particular note is the difficulty in getting all the in-between blues and pinks. There's also a fair amount of shift in the lightness of the colors (as compared to what's on my screen). Spoonflower now has a <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/help#help4a">$1 8in sample of colors</a> they've selected to be close to screen colors (they may have had it for awhile, but I only found it after my I'd already received my color wheels), and I ordered that this spring. From that, it looks like a decent range of blues is possible.
<figure style='text-align:center;'><figcaption style='font-style:italic;'>Spoonflower Sampler Colors</figcaption><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ypFAhIwZWZ0/T6wuqDUz-ZI/AAAAAAAAQR0/UNzvOLhZnc4/s400/IMG_0351.JPG"></figure>
<p>So while color wheels are traditionally useful, these mostly they just tell me that gradiants will fail horribly. On the other hand, its good to know that my normal adjustments in HSL or CMYK won't work as I expect, and I'll have to mostly stick to the colors I actually have printed out if I want the printed cloth to match my intentions.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-51713779656289325772012-05-09T23:38:00.000-07:002012-05-09T23:38:25.234-07:00Anne of Denmark — Neckline and Collar<!-- Anne of Denmark — Neckline and Collar -->
<p>I came across an old post by a friend asking what this sort of neckline would be called:
<div align=center><a href="http://contrarian.ca/2011/09/20/parliamentary-cover-up/"><img src="http://contrarian.ca/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/sitsabaiesan-C.jpg"></a></div>
The collar style is unusual enough that I decided to look up general neckline descriptions. The closest appears to be a neckline called either the Elizabethan or the Queen Anne, but the descriptions all concur that the bustline for a Queen Anne is a sweetheart shape, and the bustline of this is more of a scoop neck shape.
<br><br><p>Curious about the naming of the neckline, I did a Google image search on the term 'Queen Anne'. This primarily turned up images of Queen Anne of Great Britain (1665-1714) with scooped neckline but no collar. The search also turned up images of Anne Boleyn (1501-1536) with a square neckline, Anne of Austria (1601-1666) with the scooped neckline but the wrong collar, and Anne of Denmark (1574-1619).
<figure style='text-align:center;'><figcaption style='text-align:center;font-style:italic;'>Anne Of Great Britain (1665-1714)</figcaption>
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/75/Anne1705.jpg/220px-Anne1705.jpg">
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/a/ab/Anne%2C_Queen_of_Great_Britain.jpg/220px-Anne%2C_Queen_of_Great_Britain.jpg">
</figure>
<div style='text-align:center;'>
<figure style='display:inline-block;'><figcaption style='text-align:center;font-style:italic;'>Anne Boleyn (1501-1536)</figcaption><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/0/0e/Anneboleyn2.jpg/220px-Anneboleyn2.jpg">
</figure>
<figure style='display:inline-block;'><figcaption style='text-align:center;font-style:italic;'>Anne of Austria (1601-1666)</figcaption><img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/b/bd/Peter_Paul_Rubens_-_Portrait_of_Anne_of_Austria_-_WGA20365.jpg/220px-Peter_Paul_Rubens_-_Portrait_of_Anne_of_Austria_-_WGA20365.jpg">
</figure>
</div>
<p>Looking at <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anne_of_Denmark">the Wikipedia article on Anne of Denmark</a> resulted in the following set of images:
<figure align=center>
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6d/Anne_of_Denmark_in_mourning.jpg/220px-Anne_of_Denmark_in_mourning.jpg">
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/7/7f/Anne_of_Denmark-1605.jpg/220px-Anne_of_Denmark-1605.jpg">
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/66/Anne_of_Denmark_Gheeraerts.jpg/220px-Anne_of_Denmark_Gheeraerts.jpg">
<img src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/dd/Portrait_of_Anne_of_Danemark.jpg/220px-Portrait_of_Anne_of_Danemark.jpg">
</figure>
<br><p>I don't know if images of Anne of Denmark were any sort of basis for the Queen Anne neckline, but I do think the first image I showed of the white top is a nice modern interpretation of this 16th century neckline and collar.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-36511613781725644172011-08-10T22:55:00.000-07:002011-08-10T22:55:00.223-07:00Costume College 2011 - Day 3<!-- Costume College Day 3 -->
<p>While I have not yet managed to wear any costumes to Costume College, I have participated in Sunday Undies each year. The first year I wore a light blue pinstripe Victorian styled corset (pattern <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com/victunder.htm">LM100</a>) I made in a workshop held by <a href= "http://lacismuseum.org/">Lacis</a> and taught by Carol Wood. Last year I wore my machine-washable corset (all the bones and the busk are removeable), which was drafted and modified from Corsets and Crinolines (#43, pg 84). So I decided that this year I should really finish up my stays and wear those.
<p>I started my stays over two years ago, before my very first Costume College. They were drafted/scaled-up from a <a href="http://www.thecostumersmanifesto.com/index.php?title=File:52_1715stays.jpg">plate by Leloir</a>. By that first costume college they were, for the most part, corded, boned, and put together, and I was partway through attaching the binding. I finished the binding some time ago, and they have spent the last year or so sitting around waiting for eyelet holes to tie the shoulder straps, and a couple more bones to stiffen the last few tabs. So in off times between when we arrived Thursday night and Saturday night I finished off those last couple things. I also finally got around to hemming my chemise (which has been sitting around, folded up and neglected, in its unhemmed state for the last two years). No pictures for now, since I didn't think to have one taken on my own camera.
<p>After breakfast, I went to the 2D to 3D comic/anime lecture, found time to go by the costume exhibit, got distracted buying 3 gross of buttons at the marketplace, so was late to the Knotty Girl hair to wear class, and finally attended the hat blocking lecture and the electronics in costuming lecture. I spent the evening in the Hospitality Suite and had a wonderful time hearing about fruit-platter-hats and miscellaneous other items.
<p>At the costume exhibit, <a href="http://lynnmcmasters.com/">Lynn McMasters</a> had a nice display of hats up, with paper hair in the appropriate styles. Unfortunately, I didn't think to take a picture of the whole table. One of my favorites because of the bright colors: <div align=center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/cgmd7Dwz3mKSjker4Ow0_PTBvBjzV3OnBZNzk2onTMA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-BcVGgGuplF0/Tj7pQQe_lVI/AAAAAAAAPqo/U8K437SzoJs/s288/IMG_8013.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a></div>
<p>I saw two examples of a black netting overlayed on gold colored cloth, and I really liked the look, in particular of the bodice/corset near the entrance to the exhibit (on the left below). <div align=center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V2X7Kn350gwPwjEEUOO4ofTBvBjzV3OnBZNzk2onTMA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-V2QCQbk1gnI/Tj7o3V8MvRI/AAAAAAAAPpI/SXciKMa1npw/s288/IMG_7988.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QcFrvSz3uU_CykHJvfZc2PTBvBjzV3OnBZNzk2onTMA?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/--gDBfZKbqVc/Tj7qoJ-10pI/AAAAAAAAPvQ/sJlDgyx3Xvg/s288/IMG_8087.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a></div>
<p>Many more pictures from the costume exhibit <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111681639534796592651/CoCo2011Day3CostumeExhibit?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIXRjeeI5bqwRg&feat=directlink">here</a>.
<p><i>This concludes this mini-series about Costume College. Previously <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-1.html">Day 1</a> and <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-2.html">Day 2</a></i>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-14550547269834165982011-08-07T19:38:00.000-07:002011-08-10T22:57:54.034-07:00Costume College 2011 - Day 2<!-- CoCo 2011 Day2 -->
<p>On Satuday, day 2, I went to the Chinese Armor learning circle, which was neat to hear about. (Some pictures <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111681639534796592651/CoCo2011Day2ChineseArmorLearningCircle?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOKinNyf1dCt6wE&feat=directlink">here</a>.) This was immediately followed by the corset fitting learning circle; I now have some ideas to try to adjust the fit of my modified Edwardian corset.</p>
<p>Later I attended the Boutis Provencal workshop (resulting in Unfinished Project 2 of the weekend), "The Corset Unboned: Florentine Form", and "18th Century Fan Language - Fact and Fiction". I may or may not actually attempt to finish the Boutis Provencal sample we started on in class. While it may be nice to finish the sample and have it around, the overall idea is fairly simple so I may just jump to a final project (if/when I decide on a project to use it on). The Corset Unboned lecture was extremely informative as was the Fan Language lecture. In particular I liked hearing about the attempts to track down the original references and sources for the fan language (and finding out it didn't really exist in the way the later references implied). I think it would be awesome if the museum with the example of the 18th century parlor game coversation fan had reproductions made; it might be fun to have an event based on parlor games.</p>
<p>Friday night was the Gala: Creatures of the Night. I helped set up so I was able to get a few photos when the lights were still on before the doors opened:
<div align = center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/bRH318remAe1z34Iguyvk_TNnMj_izJypZ-X2FO26GE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-bmmRbXagM18/Tj7mguvtkeI/AAAAAAAAPmw/EvDW50QVeIY/s288/IMG_7899.JPG" height="216" width="288" /></a></div>
I felt like a lot more costumes had lights this year (and lights which were used well), which was exciting to see.
<div align = center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lgRxqbpn6kw0nelyx2Sc0fTNnMj_izJypZ-X2FO26GE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-iLAenvpg6q8/Tj7mmpV_H2I/AAAAAAAAPnE/-p-A2O17ot0/s288/IMG_7908.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sH9fWSyVIiAc_umI5rnOMvTNnMj_izJypZ-X2FO26GE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T9p8AItkYAg/Tj7mt16c0mI/AAAAAAAAPnY/V_xGzLG_vqk/s288/IMG_7916.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a> <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Tfnd--XqxF6WfkMSjgmlMfTNnMj_izJypZ-X2FO26GE?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-D25pEwUPz3M/Tj7m2vkU_RI/AAAAAAAAPn0/NZyC2ADFWZw/s288/IMG_7940.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a>
</div></p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111681639534796592651/CoCo2011Day2Gala?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCLSWkouym6ey3gE&feat=directlink">More photos from the Gala</a></p>
<p><i>Previously, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-1.html">Day 1</a>. Next, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-3.html">Day 3</a></i>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-32300801793347541862011-08-07T19:32:00.000-07:002011-08-10T22:57:08.146-07:00Costume College 2011 - Day 1<p>This was my third year attending <a href="costumecollege.org">Costume College</a>, and probably my most relaxed: I didn't even bother trying to think up or make any costumes; and I didn't spend the weekend working (no writing papers or revising my dissertation, like the last two years). I arrived late Thursday night with my friend. Friday I spent all day in the Regency era corded corset workshop (taught by JoAnn Peterson of <a href="http://www.lafnmoon.com">Laughing Moon</a>). We were guinea pigs for a new pattern: exciting! My gussets were inserted and all the grommets were set before the end of class. Stitching all the cording the lines is going to take awhile of course. So, Unfinished Project 1 (of the weekend).</p>
<p>The Friday night social featured the contestants of Project Funway. I only managed one still photo of one of the dresses. <div align=center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/b_dAEvLjtAH2we_8Ok2MlEILGWRAP5ZTLCAgx-TxQxY?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VxJuDj0VOzE/Tj7kn_9U_xI/AAAAAAAAPl8/c9Lkpq0iQIs/s288/IMG_7864.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a></div></p>
<p>Highlights of the night from my point of view were the teapot purse, and finding out about a particular Simplicity pattern. The teapot purse:
<div align = center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GhjI8lC7vyBhc3VXMz68KEILGWRAP5ZTLCAgx-TxQxY?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Nyob8tM9050/Tj7khPkqGOI/AAAAAAAAPlo/g0Qx1zNQwNM/s288/IMG_7854.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a></div>One of the marketplace vendors was selling similar teapot purses; I didn't like the sizes as much, so I may try to look for my own acceptable teapot at the numerous thrift and dollar stores nearby.</p>
<p>I saw a lady walking around with a blue coat on, then another lady walked by with the same coat style in different fabric. Look at the difference the choice of fabric can make to the look of a pattern:
<div align=center><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/MtgjU1RQU8i6zZgE1TB0t0ILGWRAP5ZTLCAgx-TxQxY?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5kH7Vw9GP5g/Tj7kelEou-I/AAAAAAAAPlg/xMrzP3cBQPw/s288/IMG_7850.JPG" height="288" width="216" /></a></div>
This is <a href="http://www.simplicity.com/p-6060-misses-costume.aspx">Simplicity 2171 by Theresa LaQuey</a>. I really like it. If I weren't right on the borderline between their size sets I would get it. Instead I may get it, or I may redraft something similar; I think one of the Francis Grimble books had some vaguely similar coats that I also liked.</p>
<p><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/111681639534796592651/CoCo2011Day1FridayNightIceCreamSocial?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJrZmpPVl53wmQE&feat=directlink">More photos from the Ice Cream Social</a></p>
<p><i>Continued on <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-2.html">Day 2</a> and <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/08/costume-college-2011-day-3.html">Day 3</a></i></p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-10053052668302338462011-02-01T03:49:00.000-08:002011-02-01T16:12:56.649-08:00A Continuing Trend<!-- A Continuing Trend -->
<p>My <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/442236">fabric design</a> contest entry (<a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/01/once-again.html">mentioned a few weeks back</a>) reached a new low in the number of votes received: 26. Total. From this I have learned that pirates are popular, and the theme of the contest is irrelevant. (Although supposedly they do attempt to filter off some of the really off topic entries.) Also, maybe this time I will actually learn not to bother entering any more of Spoonflower's contests.
<p>In other, more positive news, I have been working on a charting app. I finally got frustrated enough with my current charting process to make something better. My process before for posting charts: Google Docs Spreadsheet → app script I wrote → LaTex → pdf (using pdflatex) → clip/paste into GIMP → get a png → upload to Picasa → link to from blog post. New process for posting charts: my web app → svg and symbol key → include svg in blog post. Unfortunately, inline svg images are not supported in IE and older browsers. I can also do: my web app → LaTex → pdf, easily enough; getting an image to link to from the blog post is the annoying part.
<p>So I am thinking of only posting the svg versions on this blog, but eventually making collections of the charts available in pdf form. My plan is to start with the "Fish Napkin Patterns" in Lambert's book, <a href="http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&source=webstore_bookcard"><cite>My Knitting Book, vol. 2</cite></a>.
<p>I have a long list of uncompleted projects, however, so swatching the patterns may take awhile. In the meantime here is the Double Rose Leaf Pattern - Revised (originally mentioned in <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2008/08/charted-victorian-knitted-lace-part-i.html">this early post</a> and also mentioned in my <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/01/edging-pattern-for-hat.html">last post</a>).<a name='more'></a> If you can't see the chart or the symbols leave a comment letting me know what browser (and if possible what version number) you are using. <em>The web app isn't quite ready yet, but I will announce when it is available.</em>
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<table><thead><th>Symbol</th><th>On Odd Rows</th><th>On Even Rows</th></thead><tbody><tr><th><svg width="25" height="25"
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</svg></th><td>Centered double decrease.<td>Centered double decrease, purlwise.</td></td></tr>
<tr><th><svg width="25" height="25"
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</svg></th><td>Knit 3 together.<td>Left slanting double decrease, purlwise.</td></td></tr>
<tr><th><svg width="25" height="25"
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</svg></th><td>Left slanting double decrease.<td>Purl 3 together.</td></td></tr>
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</svg></th><td>Knit 2 together.<td>Slip, slip, return, purl 2 tog.</td></td></tr>
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</svg></th><td>Slip, slip, return, knit 2 tog tbl.<td>Purl 2 together.</td></td></tr>
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</figure>
</div>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-39480149626719266592011-01-19T20:48:00.000-08:002011-02-01T16:11:46.883-08:00Edging Pattern For a Hat<!-- Edging Pattern for a Hat -->
<p>A couple months back I decided to make my mom a hat after finding a really lovely silk yarn (Louisa Harding Mulberry in 21/Claret). I started by looking through a number of hat patterns on Ravelry. I particularly liked <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/for-joana">For Joana</a> by Agata Smektala, but my mom wanted a little more ruffle along the bottom edge. So I thought of doing something like the leaf edging along the bottom of <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/greenleaf-cap">this Greenleaf Cap by Freyalyn Close-Hainsworth</a>, but perhaps using the <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2008/08/charted-victorian-knitted-lace-part-i.html">Double Rose Leaf pattern</a>. So I did a test swatch of half of the pattern with a faggoting stitch like edge as found in some of the edging patterns from Jackson's Practical Companion to the Worktable (for example, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion-page-103.html">the pattern on pg 103</a>).</p>
<p>The swatch and corresponding chart:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/2BnGoGagEjpODSm2BqpkFTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSbMnm0sitI/AAAAAAAAPMA/34Wfu-XaYBk/s288/IMG_5045.JPG" height="288" width="154" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_36cG8KS0Sd2etPnicZqXdHBsVTlUE_--XdhYILfvjw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSVNconamqI/AAAAAAAAPLU/Kn8RmFxcjuI/s400/Revised%20Half%20Double%20Rose%20Leaf.png" height="356" width="400" /></a>
</div>
The green stitches in the chart highlight the leaf motif, and the blue stitches on the right indicate short-rows used for forming the curve.
</p>
<p>I decided that the leaf pattern didn't curve and ruffle well. <a name='more'></a> Also, it would be too wide with the hat yarn. So I decided to look for another edging pattern. Unfortunately many of the edging patterns are meant for a fine yarn, and thus have a large number of stitches across, whereas the yarn I am using for the hat is a bit more bulky. I came across an edging pattern in <a href="http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&source=webstore_bookcard">Lambert's "<i>My Knitting Book, Second Series</i>"</a> on <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA116#v=onepage&q&f=false">page 116</a> that started with 8 stitches across. Here is the pattern charted out (note that row 8 should say "bind off 3" instead of "slip 3" in the original directions, followed by knit 5 instead of 4), and the beginning of a swatch:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/JcIRX7R5KTyjDwuisSeEFTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSebDCHBVoI/AAAAAAAAPM0/RyvftvRx3k4/s288/Pg%20116%20An%20Edging.png" width="258" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TgOWgpYeCt2SIA8Rof17UTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSbMrJapQDI/AAAAAAAAPMY/Vfe03kaX6aE/s288/IMG_5065.JPG" height="288" width="164" /></a>
</div><p>
<p>After about three repeats of the pattern I decided what I really wanted was something more of a scallop ruffle, so I fiddled with decreasing in some slightly symmetric way to the first 7 rows, and making the pattern arc by using short-rows (only going all the way to the end on alternating even rows). Progression of the swatch:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/QnOP9DLISc0E8YAl0kNDjTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSbMpni0yKI/AAAAAAAAPMQ/ka8YhST1iTU/s144/IMG_5062.JPG" height="144" width="113" /></a>
</div>
Eventually this is what I settled on:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/DKO4vUSLb7A05XeWBo25qzx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSbMrymY_5I/AAAAAAAAPMg/tfxjUf5eK8k/s288/IMG_5071.JPG" height="288" width="172" /></a>
</div>
And here is the corresponding chart:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xCi7tRks90KEFxK84nE8SDx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSebDMiLqRI/AAAAAAAAPM4/XvtrYFTkHzU/s288/Revised%20Edging%20For%20Hat.png" width="273" /></a>
</div>
</p>
<p>Symbol key for the charts in this post:
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iM7ymJ3UfUmr6Aa6hmmIsTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSebDP4jHKI/AAAAAAAAPM8/tQuVhrtNlT0/s473/Symbol%20Key%20For%20Hat%20Edging.png" width="473" /></a>
</div></p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-13593446226006233952011-01-14T12:24:00.000-08:002011-01-14T12:24:00.330-08:00Once Again<p>I went ahead and entered another Spoonflower contest. The theme this time was Rococo, and I'd already been messing around with 18th century styled designs, so I didn't make a new design specifically for the contest. Some time back I had visited my library and browsed through several fabric textile books. These included (among others) <cite>Printed Textiles: English and American Cottons and Linens 1700-1850</cite> by Florence M. Montgomery and <cite>Americas Printed and Painted Fabrics</cite> by Florence H. Petti. I think the former of these two, <cite>Printed Textiles</cite>[<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JF98kgAACAAJ">GoogleBooks</a>, <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000034490981&pubid=21000000000299484">Abebooks</a>, <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000034490995&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/Printed-Textiles-American-1700-1850-Winterthur/dp/0670577227?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969">Amazon</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=neqinmod-20&l=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969&o=1&a=0670577227" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important; padding: 0px !important" />], contained a nice selection of chintz and block-printed fabrics.
<p>Anyway, I'd been working on some micro print designs for <a href="mysylvanianwardrobe.blogspot.com">my Sylvanian Families</a> at the time I visited the library, and so I used some of the stylistic features from a couple 1760-1780 block prints. Simplified, of course, for a smaller scale, and I arbitrarily picked some colors. I ended up with <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/442303">this fabric</a>, the coloring of which makes me think of 'Hawaiian shirts'. When I saw the upcoming contest theme was Rococo, I decided to enter my design (on a <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/442236">marginally larger scale</a> to show up better on the contest viewer). Yes, the styling is a little late for Rococo, and the coloring is very modern, but I have felt past contest entries always seemed overly loose with the theme anyway.
<p>Well, after having looked through the contest entries, at least my entry has some relation to the 18th century. (I thought some of the other entries were interesting or pretty, but almost none of them made me think Rococo or 18th century. Of course, if I didn't have such a fascination of chintz, and I hadn't read through as many books on 18th century textiles as I have, I'd probably think better of at least some of the designs.) <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/contest_voters/new?contest_id=64">Look through the entries yourself and vote.</a>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-61623308372087353472011-01-12T12:46:00.000-08:002011-01-12T12:46:00.812-08:00A Simple Stitch Pattern<!-- A simple stitch pattern -->
<p>I wanted to test some of the stitch patterns from <a href="http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&source=webstore_bookcard">Lambert's "<i>My Knitting Book, Second Series</i>"</a>, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/01/knitting-patterns-on-my-phone.html">as mentioned earlier</a>. Being moderately lazy, I decided to start with a pattern with few stitches and rows per repeat: <i>Open Pattern for a small Quilt</i> is on <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA49#v=onepage&q&f=false">page 49</a>, and has only 5 stitches across per pattern, and two rows. The chart is pretty silly, but here it is anyway (second row is purled across the back side, so not shown):
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KSyh-qTzQaJtKSbAW_0ZeDx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSVmE4_fdhI/AAAAAAAAPLk/iJn1WRl0yMY/s640/Pg49%20Open%20Pattern.png" height="120" /></a>
</div>
The slipped stitch is alternately passed over two stitches and one stitch.
</p>
<p>Also, I made up that symbol combination, but the intention should be mostly clear if you understand the somewhat similar symbol combination that occurs in the last image in <a href="http://www.fluffbuff.com/2007/02/japanese_knitting_symbols.html">this article on FluffBuff</a> and is also explained <a href="http://showyouhowto.wordpress.com/2009/08/11/advanced-disk-group-a/">by ShowYouHowTo</a>.</p>
<p>For the swatch I cast on 14 stitches: 2 repeats plus 2 edge stitches on each side. I knit about 12 rows; for the first three pairs of pattern rows I slipped the stitches knitwise, and for the second three pairs I slipped the stitches purlwise. I decided I prefered the look when slipping the stitches knitwise (bottom of picture).
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fINYQ71yQDS3FgrmwarXsTx3OtX3ukYQRWK8pIHXA9M?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSbMouz9_0I/AAAAAAAAPMI/-1M9aRf9B24/s288/IMG_5055.JPG" height="196" width="288" /></a>
</div>
</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-17254744270494751792011-01-10T13:40:00.000-08:002011-01-10T13:40:00.173-08:00High-tech Fabrics<!-- Fashion and Science -->
<p>I briefly referenced <a href="www.ecouterre.com">Ecouterre</a> in my <a "http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2011/01/lace-as-jewelry.html">last post</a>. It's big on sustainability, and recycling, and reducing waste. All good objectives, but the posts I've found the most interesting tend to be the slightly more bizarre technology posts: <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/solar-piezoelectric-hybrid-fiber-could-create-energy-generating-clothes/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+Ecouterre+(Ecouterre)">energy generating clothes</a>, <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/energy-harvesting-film-could-lead-to-clothing-that-powers-your-gadgets?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%253A+Ecouterre+%2528Ecouterre%2529">clothes that power your gadgets</a>, <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/scientists-create-harry-potter-like-invisibility-cloak-from-gold-coated-silk?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%253A+Ecouterre+%2528Ecouterre%2529">invisibility cloak</a>, <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/stella-mccartney-designs-glow-in-the-dark-performance-wear-for-adidas?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%253A+Ecouterre+%2528Ecouterre%2529">glow in the dark clothing</a>, <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/mit-scientists-create-fibers-that-can-hear-sing-generate-electricity?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%253A+Ecouterre+%2528Ecouterre%2529">fibers that can emit and detect sound</a>, and <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/scientists-produce-spider-silk-from-metabolically-engineered-bacteria">spider dragline from E. coli</a>. Another site on technology and fashion, <a href="http://www.fashioningtech.com/">Fashioning Technology</a>, has more focus on the lights and gizmos on or in clothing, and less about new textiles. Also, Syuzi Pakhchyan of Fashioning Technology appears to have a DIY Intro book [<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=xVVvKVQSSR8C">GoogleBooks</a>, <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000034438227&pubid=21000000000299484">Abebooks</a>, <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000012871747&pid=9780596514372&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.barnesandnoble.com%2FFashioning-Technology%2FSyuzi-Pakhchyan%2Fe%2F9780596514372&usg=AFHzDLvYVrpaRv5pmX48MASt9WIftolakw&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>, <a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/Fashioning-Technology-Intro-Crafting-Projects/dp/0596514379?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969">Amazon</a><img src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=neqinmod-20&l=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969&o=1&a=0596514379" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important; padding: 0px !important"/>].</p>
<p>Now about clothing style, or rather visual elements; I'm currently liking the sleeveless (or cap-sleeve) ruffle look. Clothing grown from bacteria seems a little weird, and I don't care for the paper-like look of the material, but I think <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/u-k-designer-grows-an-entire-wardrobe-from-tea-fermenting-bacteria">this shirt design</a> is kind of cute. Similarly, I like the ruffles over the shoulders on <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/morphotex-dress-mimics-butterfly-wing-shimmer-without-any-dyes">this dress</a> and the fabric probably looks pretty neat in person, but the rest of the dress isn't very exciting. Both of these are part of the <a href="http://antenna.sciencemuseum.org.uk/trashfashion/home/wearwithoutwaste/">Trash Fashion exhibit</a> at the Science Museum in South Kensington, London.</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-6889272646629112812011-01-07T18:15:00.000-08:002011-01-07T18:15:13.837-08:00Lace as Jewelry<p>I'm not much of a jewelry person, but someday I really should pick up a few things to accessorize costumes. Actually, somewhere between Margaretville and I-87 in NY there is an antique shop in some building (which also contains a cafe and some other stuff), and this antique shop contained several 'Victorian watch pins'. I was very tempted to get one when I passed through last summer, and didn't because I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the $40 at the time, and I've been kicking myself since then. I don't even know the name of the shop, or building, so even if I end up in that region of the country again sometime soon I don't know that I'd be able to find the place again.</p>
<p>Maybe I will sketch out something of what I remember of it. Which honestly isn't much beyond stones spaced circularly, and two tiers. (I can't even remember if the stones were green or maroon, now.)</p>
<p>Also on the topic of jewelry, I recently came across <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com">Ecouterre</a>, which had <a href="http://www.ecouterre.com/jewelry-designer-casts-vintage-lace-in-recycled-gold-silver/aj-white-metal-lace-jewelry-1/?extend=1">a post about vintage lace cast in gold and silver</a>. Some of the crochet and Cluny lace pieces are kind of neat (See <a href="http://www.etsy.com/shop/WhiteFly?page=1">WhiteFly on Etsy</a>). Although really, the Cluny lace could simply be made in wire, and the crochet piece could be made in metallic thread (not quite the same end look, but I think it could still look good if done well). Still, the idea of casting the vintage pieces in recycled gold and silver is interesting.</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-9950869649609135922011-01-05T20:43:00.000-08:002011-01-07T18:18:13.316-08:00Knitting Patterns On My Phone<!-- Knitting Patterns On My Phone -->
<p>Google has (back in late Nov. or early Dec.) launched an ebook store site. As part of this they now have an e-reader for android phones. Although the old scanned needlework books are still images, and not epub books (with adjustable font size), several of the ones I have looked at appear to have originally been printed on half or quarter sheets of paper. This means they are just about the perfect size for displaying on my Nexus One.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/lWIK25Sdt-I5KzI_9x1SdTnLpPzyPfUtcYdL5Am4s0c?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSVCiEXvhCI/AAAAAAAAPLA/Q-v80l4jw38/s400/IMG_5032.JPG" height="400" /></a>
</div></p>
<p>Above, a page from <a href="http://books.google.com/ebooks?id=JVJHAAAAYAAJ&source=webstore_bookcard">Lambert's "<i>My Knitting Book, Second Series</i>"</a>. I have started to swatch out some of the stitch patterns and edging patterns from this book, and intend to chart them as I did previously with a few of the patterns from Jackson's "<i>Practical Companion to the Work Table</i>" (pg <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion.html">102</a>, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion-page-103.html">103</a>, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion-page-105.html">105</a>, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion-page-126.html">126</a>).
</p>
<p>Also shown in the picture: the same page printed out on paper, and a baby bonnet I am making for my niece. I started the bonnet with the intention of testing out some of the patterns in Lambert's book; at the moment only two stitch patterns are actually going to end up being used. More details about the bonnet will likely wait until after I have finished the bonnet and charted the stitch patterns. Another picture, with the GoogleBook app in 'night' mode.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/fZqHgqreM9UtbpmRxTsl5jnLpPzyPfUtcYdL5Am4s0c?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TSVB-_sDS_I/AAAAAAAAPKw/NvY858YEfAo/s288/IMG_5035.JPG" height="288" width="210" /></a>
</div>
Between the original printing and font, and the digitization process, I personally think the night mode is a little difficult to read.
</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-64948183594814352362010-11-28T12:29:00.000-08:002010-11-28T12:29:00.408-08:00Jackson's Practical Companion, Page 126<!-- Jackson Practical Companion, pg 126 -->
<p>I have two more patterns from <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ">The Practical Companion to the Work Table, by Elizabeth Jackson</a> that I have charted out: <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA124#v=onepage&q&f=false">German Lace Pattern from page 124</a>, and <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA126#v=onepage&q&f=false">Open Pattern For Shawl from page 126</a>.</p>
<p>Well, I haven't gotten around to knitting swatches up yet, but <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/people/lillybomm">lillybomm on Ravelry</a> has already tested the Shawl Pattern: <a href="http://www.ravelry.com/projects/lillybomm/a-beautiful-open-pattern-for-shetland-shawls">in a lovely orange yarn</a>. So I thought I may as well post the chart without knitting up a swatch to go with it. It is a fairly simple pattern.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wnSVOhyZYxR_3Hi-bhQh-S89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TPBOy9BSEHI/AAAAAAAANwE/fdA31Lzl_ho/s800/Shawl%20Symbol%20Key.png" height="157" width="469" /></a>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/KGUjRYmi8Vfm8I15JIOSmC89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TPBOyzN71xI/AAAAAAAANwI/KGBP9hiW6PA/s400/pg126%20OpenPatternForShawl.png" width="373" /></a>
</div></p>
<p>The german lace pattern appears to have several errors in the written instructions, so I won't post the chart until I've actually swatched up what I think is the correct pattern.</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-5716423567560621372010-11-26T15:37:00.000-08:002011-02-01T16:18:15.102-08:00Jackson's Practical Companion, Page 105<!--Jackson Practical Companion, cont., pg 105-->
<p>The next edging swatch I made in <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ">The Practical Companion to the Work Table, by Elizabeth Jackson</a> was the Brussels Lace pattern, on <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103#v=onepage&q&f=false">page 105</a>.</p>
<p>As with the prior two patterns (<a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion.html">Pointed Lace</a>, <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion-page-103.html">Open Lace</a>), this pattern is again written in garter stitch lace, and I have charted (and swatched) both the original and a stockinette style version. These charts use two additional symbols. One is a double decrease. The other is a non-standard symbol indicating two yarns-overs; on the following row only one of the yarn-overs is used and the other is dropped. This results in an extra loose yarn over, and a larger hole.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/e_NBTIkkE98REPahLw25Gy89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TPAz9yD5oVI/AAAAAAAANvM/tAjBC6100DY/s800/Brussels%20Lace%20Key.png" height="305" width="469" /></a>
</div></p>
<p>This pattern has an 8 row repeat. The written instructions for row 9 say to bind off some number of stitches then continue with row 1. In the following charts, row 9 is fully diagrammed. Thus row 1 is only used at the beginning, and the pattern then repeats between rows 2 and 9. When ending, the last full row of the pattern should be row 8, with the 9th row being the bindoff. Here is a chart of the original version, with even rows knit.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/GTP2smmqD4cMaionapq8mS89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TPAz-JU__NI/AAAAAAAANvQ/ytn9312eTII/s640/Pg105%20Brussels%20Lace%20Original.png" width="438" /></a>
</div>
<a name='more'></a>The modified version with the even rows purled, for a distinct front and back.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/vT0NTWZV8BNWAlwwjb1XLC89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TPAz-ExGluI/AAAAAAAANvU/8j8POvUH_4w/s640/Pg105%20Brussels%20Lace%20Modified.png" width="438" /></a>
</div>
</p>
<p>Again I used a size 10 crochet thread and a US size 0 (2mm) needle to make a swatch. I started with three repeats of the original pattern (first 3 points on the right), then switched to the stockinette style pattern. After about two repeats of that, I concluded I really didn't like the look of K1, P1, K1, P1, into the four yarn overs in a row: the little bumps that occur annoy me. So I started playing with loop cast ons instead of yarn overs (holes are too small: second point from the left), and alternating loop cast ons with yarn overs. I was relatively happy with the final version I came up with (left most point). Later I will write up instructions of what I did.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PPztMlFSm7uM-MolGQiq3y89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOm0PGmqLzI/AAAAAAAANrg/v40YkEeHHVU/s640/pg105%20IMG_2071.JPG" height="210" width="640" /></a></div>
A larger picture of the portions corresponding to the above charts.
<div align=center>
<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/ABXMa58cG1X4aw6Px0R8MS89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOm0NUE7t4I/AAAAAAAANrY/SKU7GujgD_c/s500/pg105%20original%20IMG_2052.JPG" width="500" /></a>
</div>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-92181849766459603662010-11-24T11:35:00.000-08:002011-02-01T16:18:42.430-08:00Jackson's Practical Companion, Page 103<!--Jackson Practical Companion, cont., pg 103-->
<p>I continued swatching some of the edging patterns in <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ">The Practical Companion to the Work Table, by Elizabeth Jackson</a>. Following is the sample and corresponding charts for the Open Lace Pattern, on <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103#v=onepage&q&f=false">page 103</a>.</p>
<p>As with the <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion.html">prior lace pattern</a>, the instructions were written for a garter stitch lace. I concluded after knitting both the version as written and the modified version in stockinette style, that I actually preferred the garter stitch version for this particular edging.</p>
<p>The original instructions are missing a single knit stitch at the end of row 8. Here is a chart of the pattern, with the correction marked in orange:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l6G17I7JSEUnCZYYl4WuYi89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOojLI1yQFI/AAAAAAAANtw/DhLbNdd4iyQ/s400/Pg103%20Open%20Lace%20Original.png" width="312" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>And here is the modified version, with the even rows purled instead of knitted:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/CXd27XJoqcJdPGtIoiDmdy89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOojKdXhuRI/AAAAAAAANts/YtuvhSZFWDo/s400/Pg103%20Open%20Lace%20Modifiedl.png" width="328" /></a></div>
These charts use the same key as in the <a href="http://nequientinmode.blogspot.com/2010/11/jacksons-practical-companion.html">prior post</a>.
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tU2VO5qJ1EkqaTDKdAqFZy89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOorZ8y1QOI/AAAAAAAANuQ/CUW8dRRUWKk/s800/Pg102%20Pointed%20Lace%20Key.png" height="292" width="474" /></a></div>
</p>
<p>For my test swatch, the first two points (on the right) were knit in the garter stitch lace, and the second two (on the left) were knit stockinette style.
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/qd8aK9V6t3vNYMbUTKfQqS89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOm0QLx8coI/AAAAAAAANro/BO7bRIpRNro/s640/pg103%20IMG_2069.JPG" width="600" /></a></div></p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-43879907580593010482010-11-22T11:26:00.000-08:002011-02-01T16:19:05.593-08:00Jackson's Practical Companion<!--Jackson's Practical Companion -->
<p>I was thinking of making a baby bonnet for my future niece, but I was unimpressed with the selection of baby bonnets I found on Ravelry so I decided to browse through the victorian era public domain books on Google. Well, I didn't find much in the way of baby bonnets (so far), but I found a number of edging patterns that looked interesting.</p>
<p>So I've started to chart and knit a few of them. Almost all the patterns I looked at are written out as garter stitch lace, but I've charted them out as both garter stitch and stockinette stitch. Thus, the following charts show the front of the lace. For the most part, the charts use the JIS symbols (a list and visual instructions of how to knit the stitches can be found at <a href="http://www.tata-tatao.to/knit/stitches/e-index.html">this helpful site</a>, and more general information on Japanese knitting symbols can be found <a href="http://fleeglesblog.blogspot.com/2007/01/japanese-knitting-symbol-primer.html">here</a>), but the following key can also be used (in the following, SSK is used instead of SKPsso).
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/tU2VO5qJ1EkqaTDKdAqFZy89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOorZ8y1QOI/AAAAAAAANuQ/CUW8dRRUWKk/s800/Pg102%20Pointed%20Lace%20Key.png" height="292" width="474" /></a></div></p>
<p>I started with the pointed lace pattern, on <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA102&source=gbs_toc_r&cad=4#v=onepage&q&f=false">page 102</a> of <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=UvkDAAAAQAAJ">The Practical Companion to the Work Table by Elizabeth Jackson</a>:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/uyyxRslyNjgD7bSO7WB0xC89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOnKjXYK0RI/AAAAAAAANsQ/htiVYFKMP3s/s288/Pg102%20Pointed%20Lace%20Original.png" height="155" /></a></div></p>
<a name='more'></a><p>I usually prefer a stockinette stitch look, rather than a garter stitch look, so I changed that first. Then, I also fiddled with the orientation of the decreases for a bit. Here is my modified version:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RfNTuGjYsDNGYjJtvsM2Qi89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOnKjR6gk-I/AAAAAAAANsM/0BtCovIuNzs/s288/Pg102%20Pointed%20Lace%20Modified.png" height="155" /></a></div></p>
<p>I knit my modified version up in size 10 thread (Aunt Lydia's bamboo crochet thread), using US size 000, 00, 0, and 1 needles. The two swatches are pinned out to block them:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/4PD8htYEMr4NomwooSR1wS89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOmU2ViZt8I/AAAAAAAANos/CCIVulB1oXs/s288/pg102-blocking.JPG" height="216" width="288" /></a></div>
For the top swatch I used size 1, 0, and 00 needles (left to right in the image below), and the bottom swatch was knit with the 000 needles.
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9OxvxOMcWFlrtdk5TAGSVi89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOme9uNnkLI/AAAAAAAANpU/k2zeCt7Zd44/s288/pg102-size%20differences.JPG" height="216" width="288" /></a></div>
</p>
<p>Here is the 000 needle swatch up close:
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/rIBKRqZLO5OCVAcUQrX7TC89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOmVvzDlikI/AAAAAAAANo8/vSkcSGplJEU/s400/pg102-size3-0%20IMG_2002.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
In the other swatch the left 3 points were knit with the size 1 needles, the middle 3 points with the size 0 needles, and the last two points on the right with the 00 needles.
<div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/iguAG-fiYIqhtGsN24t9fy89racQgGaCPoZ_8MxjdxI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOm0H8TmA8I/AAAAAAAANq4/WvLvCXy6vmc/s400/pg102-size1to2-0%20IMG_2004.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</p>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-48833537368312642062010-11-14T17:24:00.000-08:002010-11-14T17:24:37.183-08:00V&A Fashion In DetailAt some point this summer, when I noticed Amazon was out of "Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail", [<a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/Seventeenth-Eighteenth-Century-Fashion-Detail-Avril/dp/1851775676?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969">Amazon</a>, <a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000012871747&pid=9781851775675&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.barnesandnoble.com%2FSeventeenth-and-Eighteenth-Century-Fashion-in-Detail%2FAvril-Hart%2Fe%2F9781851775675&usg=AFHzDLu7owbUOQmQ0M5J8ZnElUfwtgnzUA&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=6EspOwAACAAJ">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=2783&navlock=1">V&A</a>], I hurriedly ordered "Nineteenth Century Fashion in Detail" before it also vanished, [<a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/Nineteenth-Century-Fashion-Detail-Johnston/dp/1851775722?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969">Amazon</a>,<a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000012871747&pid=9781851775729&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.barnesandnoble.com%2FNineteenth-Century-Fashion-in-Detail%2FLucy-Johnston%2Fe%2F9781851775729&usg=AFHzDLsaPPlGIt-jIfue74gvT35VMoFxFA&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=iGq1AAAAIAAJ">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=2781&xSec=279&navlock=1">V&A</a>]. At some point "Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century Fashion in Detail" came back in stock and I got around to ordering it. Well, last week I ordered "Underwear: Fashion in Detail", [<a target="_blank" href="http://www.amazon.com/Underwear-Fashion-Detail-Eleri-Lynn/dp/1851776168?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969">Amazon</a>,<a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000012871747&pid=9781851776160&adurl=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.barnesandnoble.com%2FUnderwear%2FEleri-Lynn%2Fe%2F9781851776160&usg=AFHzDLvyPfifgjUi-ChMeqcN5Klf-L2oug&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=6rGbQwAACAAJ">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=5520&xSec=279&navlock=1">V&A</a>]. So now I have three V&A books of eye candy.<br />
<div align=center><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOBB0FBn0sI/AAAAAAAANnE/ATVYvj49kS4/s400/IMG_2095.JPG"/><br />
The cover photos on the books are of course ©V&A<br />
Shop at the V&A: <a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=2783&navlock=1">17th & 18th C.</a>, <a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=2781&xSec=279&navlock=1">19th C.</a>, <a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=5520&xSec=279&navlock=1">Underwear</a></div><br />
The "Underwear: Fashion in Detail" may have somehow been both the most disappointing and the most interesting. Despite having a gorgeous corset on the cover, I think most of the book covered 20th century underwear. They had plenty of earlier pieces (chemises, shifts, drawers, stays, corsets, hoops, and bustles), but the book was organized to highlight certain things, and the 20th century had so much change in underwear, including underwear as outerwear, that there seemed to be a lot of 20th century selections. I found this is what made the book interesting; the text explained a lot of the changing fashions and how they sometimes fit within the more general social context.<br />
<br />
In any case, some of the 20th century pieces were still stunning. One of my favorites was the stocking with the embroidered, sequined snake encircling the leg, circa 1900, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O139659/pair-of-stockings/">Item V&A:T.53-1962</a>. Another was one of the dresses, circa 1930s, shown on the back cover (the one on the left), <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O144952/negligee-dressing-gown/">Item V&A:T.308-1984</a>.<br />
<div align=center><a href="http://www.vandashop.com/product.php?xProd=5520&xSec=279&navlock=1"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/TOBB1r0ia0I/AAAAAAAANnM/24omaDmIh5c/s400/IMG_2102.JPG"/></a><br />
Again, photos displayed on the front and back covers are ©V&A</div>I am also vaguely tempted to try and crochet a whirlpool bra. Don't know what I'd do with it if I made one, but designing and creating something like the bra on pg 150-151, <a href="http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O368016/bra/">Item V&A: T.196-1989</a>, just seems kind of interesting.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-26166278465935650982010-08-26T01:39:00.000-07:002011-02-01T16:32:31.007-08:00Omiyage Bags, Set 1<p> As I mentioned in the last post, Spoonflower is not the only business to print fabric on demand in small amounts. And I have decided to test as many of them out as I can; this has turned into an ongoing, and very slow project.
<p>At some point in my infrequent browsing through craft books in bookstore, I came across "The Perfect Bag" by Linda McGehee [<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=wXFSPgAACAAJ&dq=The+Perfect+Bag%22+by+Linda+McGehee&hl=en&ei=rX98TLiuO4KosQP24tCCBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDYQ6AEwAA">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000032588480&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0896894096?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0896894096">Amazon</a>]. Well, I managed to find this book in my current local library not too long ago, during one of my browses through the craft section.
<p>I also came across "Omiyage: Handmade Gifts from Fabric in the Japanese Tradition" by Kumiko Sudo [<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=lh2hQIkpr88C&q=Omiyage:+Handmade+Gifts+from+Fabric+in+the+Japanese+Tradition%22+by+Kumiko+Sudo&dq=Omiyage:+Handmade+Gifts+from+Fabric+in+the+Japanese+Tradition%22+by+Kumiko+Sudo&hl=en&ei=wn98TNysPImosQOM-fGDBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDUQ6AEwAA">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000032588440&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0809229099?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0809229099">Amazon</a>]. I'm not much of a purse person -- I have one purse that I use constantly (it occasionally switches, approximately every 2-5 years I think) -- but Omiyage completely captured me. The only problem is that nearly all the projects involve a whole bunch of piecing. I got taken with a quilt/piecing bug once, and made myself a chair cushion cover; I have since lost nearly all interest in projects that involve piecing (the prospect of crazy quilting still has me captured though). To eliminate the piecing problem of those fantastic bags, I decided to make a cheater print of custom fabric. And since I had almost 50 designs by this point, I decided to try and use them all as a sort of sampler.
<p>So I laid out the necessary pieces for 6 bags from the Omiyage book, and one purse/bag based on what I remembered from The Perfect Bag. Originally I was going to print them out through Spoonflower, but I wanted a slightly heavier weight fabric than their quilting cotton (and I didn't want to pay the price for the cotton sateen). So I took a look at Fabric On Demand, which offers a 62" wide 6oz cotton poplin for $16.75 (probably the best price per cloth area I've seen).
<a name='more'></a><p>Well, I immediately ran into a problem with their purchasing system: images can only be uploaded if they are less than 10Mb in size. Now I could manage this despite the 62" by 36" image at 150 dpi, if I converted the image to jpeg format, but I noticed this caused aliasing (of the solid areas) and general blurryness (of the finely detailed areas). So I emailed them, and got a response back fairly quickly with some alternate ways of dealing with large files. I decided to email the file after placing the order, but this still left me with the problem that Yahoo and GMail have a max attachment size of 25Mb. Eventually I figured out to remove the alpha channel information from the file (using GIMP), and recompress it at the max setting. This got my file down to 24.8Mb.
<p>A week and a half later (or thereabouts) my fabric showed up.
<div align=center><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYrs2-WyCI/AAAAAAAAMUw/LyG8jUax_uc/s288/P8130014.JPG"/></div>
<p>Some of the designs seemed kind of fuzzy. I don't know if this is because my file was 150 dpi, or because they do some image conversion in the process. There also appeared to be a slight registration problem (two dyes were printed slightly off from one another rather than directly on top of each other). Not particularly noticeable in the general sense. Because of the blurring on the fine lines, I'm going to do a direct comparison between Spoonflower and FoD at some point (soon). On the snake image below the scales are supposed to show up in the entire background area, and they've been blurred out of existence on the fabric.
<div align=center><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYruf9jFQI/AAAAAAAAMU4/JFCyPrSAwVI/s800/P8130005.JPG"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYruf9jFQI/AAAAAAAAMU4/JFCyPrSAwVI/s288/P8130005.JPG"/></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYrvU5ud3I/AAAAAAAAMVA/sBD6lNK4lmY/s800/P8130022.JPG"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYrvU5ud3I/AAAAAAAAMVA/sBD6lNK4lmY/s288/P8130022.JPG"/></a></div>
<p>I decided to wash the fabric before actually sewing the bags together. After washing I noticed a couple additional problems. First, some white patchy areas appeared. I may have accidently dumped detergent directly on top of the printed area, but that still means the printing is not quite as color-fast I as would expect. I didn't notice any bleeding of the color onto the white border, so its probably (mostly) color-fast, however.
<div align=center><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYrwcuS_5I/AAAAAAAAMVI/YBiwm4uPa1I/s288/P8140026.JPG"/> <img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYryQ0hTWI/AAAAAAAAMVQ/lNZ893XkRcg/s288/P8140036.JPG"/></div><br />I also noticed a few small white dots appeared. My best quess is that some of the dye was printed onto surface lint or fuzz, and that the fuzz was washed off.<br /><div align=center><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYrzvMrLaI/AAAAAAAAMVY/XVFLJl341Yk/s288/P8140037.JPG"/></div>
<p>Since I didn't wash my Spoonflower order, I can't really compare the two businesses with regards to printing quality (yet).
<p>At this point, I've sewn up my first two bags. As I was sewing I noticed that my squares were no longer square: the image had gotten slightly squished in one direction. Perhaps because of the header they added? Or maybe just an error? I haven't gotten an answer back yet. It hasn't been much of a problem thus far.
<p>Here is 'Panache' from the Omiyage book:
<div align=center><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYr1y1A5eI/AAAAAAAAMVw/amBqbWRsmZI/s288/P8250038.JPG"/></div><br />Also, I added a small pocket on the inside so that I am not constantly losing my keys to the bottom of the bag. I failed to remember one of the pieces, so the bottom of the lining is just some extra white fabric.<br /><div align=center><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYr2bD0agI/AAAAAAAAMV4/CHsbqws6f8Q/s288/P8250048.JPG"/> <img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYr3GD_VrI/AAAAAAAAMWA/_2LJw3k0Cvc/s288/P8250046.JPG"/></div>
And 'Marbles':<br /><div align=center><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYr0dZI5HI/AAAAAAAAMVg/in807CmMMy0/s288/P8250040.JPG"/> <img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THYr1DX7dAI/AAAAAAAAMVo/5ZFThM9QJB0/s288/P8250044.JPG"/></div>
<p>The 6oz cotton is pretty dense, and by the end of these two bags I had a sore spot on my thumb from pushing and pulling the needle. So I had to put the remaining bags aside for the time being. Next: 'Pinecone', 'Conpaito', 'Candy Twist', and the Mojave Green purse. I haven't yet decided what to do about the splotches on the fabric for 'Double Petal Sakura'; the fabrics printed out much darker than I had intended and the gear designs have kind of vanished.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-37694334215120427212010-08-25T22:23:00.000-07:002011-02-01T16:34:14.323-08:00On Demand and Custom Fabric PrintingSpoonflower is not the only site that will print custom fabric, but at the moment it seems to have the best combination of price and easy to use site/ordering. I figure, however, I should spread my business around where it seems appropriate and try to promote competition.<br /><br />Following is a list of the current set of sites I have looked at (or rather found) thus far for custom fabric printing (in small amounts).<br /><a name='more'></a><br />These are sites primarly focused on fabric on demand. (Not in any particular order.) Also, TrueUp had a nice <a href="http://www.trueup.net/fabric-study/digital-fabric-printing-service-guide-and-giveaway/">post comparing swatches from four of these companies</a>, along with a comparison chart (out of date at this point, but easier to read than this list). <ul><br /> <li><a href="http://www.spoonflower.com">Spoonflower</a><br /> <ul><br /><li>This is the site I've spent the most time on; they have weekly contests, as I've mentioned in other posts. After purchasing a swatch you can make your design available for purchase to the general public; you receive 10% for purchases larger than a swatch (this includes your own designs and is called a 'designer discount' in this case).</li><br /> <li>The fabrics are of natural fibers -- I have no idea if they are actually using fiber reactive dyes however. A list of fabrics, printable sizes, and prices can be found <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/spoonflower_fabrics">here</a>.<br /> <ul><br /><li>A swatch booklet of their fabrics is available for $1.</li><br /> <li>8"x8" swatches are $5 each. If you are the designer, you can organize your fabrics into 'collections' and order swatches at a reduced price: $20 for up to 12 swatches and $30 for up to 24 (the max size of a collection). <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/help#help7">More information on collections.</a></li><br /> <li>Fat quarters range from $11 for quilting weight cotton to $17 for upholstery weight twill.</li><br /> <li>Yardage prices range from $16.20/yard (if you're the designer, $18 otherwise) for quilting weight cotton to $28.80/yard (designer, $32 otherwise) for upholstery weight twill. </li> </ul></li><br /> <li>Shipping is $1 for a single swatch or fat quarter, and increments thereafter according to fabric weight.</li><br /> <li>Uploaded images can be up to 30Mb in size.</li><br /> <li>They occasionally have free swatch days; keep an eye on the blog. If you are looking for previous posts, however, the tags on their blog seem porely organized.</li> <br /></ul></li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.fabricondemand.com">Fabric On Demand</a><br /> <ul><br /> <li>Ordering is a somewhat complicated process, which involves placing an order for the fabric (amount and type), then paying (via paypal), then uploading or submitting the actual image file. After all that, they will email you with an image showing how it is going to print out, and wait for your approval before actually printing. Turn around time is pretty fast however.</li><br /> <li>Fabric selection is a nice mix of natural and synthethics. In particular, they offer printing on polyester 'micro suede' (seemed more of a low loft velour), polyester fleece, and lycra. <br /> <ul><br /><li>A swatch booklet can be requested for free; it seems to contain more fabrics than they have currently listed on the site.</li><br /> <li>8" by 8" swatches are $5</li><br /> <li>Fat quarter prices range from $10 (cotton, organic cotton, poly/cotton, micro suede, fleece, and cotton duck) to $15 (polyester satin and linen/cotton canvas).</li><br /> <li>Yardage prices range from $16.25/yd (4oz cotton poplin), to $16.75 (6oz cotton poplin, and 62" wide!), to $26 (organic cotton), to $34.20 (lycra)</li></ul></li><br /> <li>Shipping is $2 for a single swatch, $2 for a fat quarter, and $5 for any yardage (1 to 10 yards). Shipping costs appear to increment by number of items ordered.</li><br /> <li>Uploaded images can be up to 8Mb (maybe 10Mb depending on where you look on the site). They can handle larger image files in a few ways, if you contact them: you host and send the link, they host (ftp) and you specify the image, and email (the max attachment size for both Yahoo and GMail is 25Mb).</li><br /> <li>The site seems kind of unfinished/unprofessional, but they have been very good about responding to emails (usually within a day).</li><br /> </ul> </li><br /> <li><a href="https://www.karmakraft.com/">KharmaKraft</a><br /> <ul><br /><li>Fabrics are mostly natural fibers, but include animal (silk) along with the plant based selections. They also offer a polyester satin and a polyester suede. <br /> <ul><br /><li>A swatch booklet ("Base Cloth Set") can be ordered for $9.</li><br /> <li>Yardage prices range from $30/yard (polyester satin), to $36/yard (light weight cotton, 3.7oz), to $37 (silk dupioni). KharmaKraft actually prices by square yard: $20, $24, and $33 for the previously mentioned fabrics.</li> </ul> </li><br /> <li>Shipping is $12 for orders less than 1 pound in weight.</li><br /> <li>Uploaded images can be up to 25Mb in size.</li><br /> <li>They offer a 'cut and sew' service for pillow shams, bags, scarfs, and table cloths.</li><br /></ul> </li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.roomsbyyou.com">Rooms By You</a><br /> <ul><br /><li>In addition to household products, they also offer printing on kona cotton, cotton sateen, and linen yardage.<br /> <ul><br /> <li>10" by 10" swatch is $5 for Kona cotton, cotton sateen and polyester duck. Linen and heavy cotton duck swatches are $9.</li><br /> <li>Yardage price is $18/yard for Kona Cotton and Cotton Sateen. Linen fabric is $32/yard. All three fabrics are 48" in width.</li> </ul> </li><br /> <li>Shipping is $0.44 for a swatch, and $4.90 and up for a yard (depending on location -- California ~$5, Michigan ~$8). Appears to increment by weight.</li><br /> <li>Images can be up to 25Mb in size. All designs (currently) must be 12" by 12", but you can crop after your design is uploaded. They have plans to allow full product images (and hopefully non-square images), but that is supposedly at least another 5 months away.</li><br /> </ul> </li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.candeystore.com/">Candey Store</a><br /> <ul><br /><li> Fabrics include cotton broadcloth (3.5oz) and cotton duck (8oz). <br /> <ul><br /> <li>10" by 10" swatch is $6.75 for broadcloth and $9 for duck.</li><br /> <li>Fat quarter prices are $10.50 for broadcloth and $16.50 for duck.</li><br /> <li>Yardage prices are $24.74/yard for broadcloth and $31.50 for duck. 3 yard maximum uncut length.</li> </ul></li><br /> <li>Shipping is $5 for a swatch or yard of fabric.</li><br /> <li>They also offer printing on T-shirts and mousepads, as well as paper goods and buttons.</li><br /> </ul> </li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.dpi-sf.com/">DPI</a><br /> <ul><br /><li> The offer a range cotton, linen, silk, and polyester fabrics.<br /> <ul><br /> <li>A booklet of fabrics can be requested for free.</li><br /> <li>Yardage prices range from $23 (cotton sheeting and poly silk), to $25 (Kona cotton, poly fleece), to $60 (silk charmeuse 19.5mm). Yardage prices decrease if ordering more than 5, 10, and 25 yards.</li> </ul></li><br /> <li>They also offer custom printed scarves, bags, pillows, and laptop sleeves.</li> </ul> </li><br /></ul><br /><br />Other sites with sometimes unknown minimums. I have not contacted these companies to ask about prices (none are listed on their sites).<br /><ul> <li><a href="http://www.first2print.com/">First 2 Print</a>: This may be one of the companies that never responded to my inquiry about minimum order sizes and prices.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.advdigitaltextiles.com">Advanced Digital Textiles</a>: 5 yard minimum according to website.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.dreamfabricprinting.com/">Dream Digital</a>: Their website claims no minimum yardage.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.designerprints.net">Designer Prints</a>: They don't mention minimums, so they probably have them.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.craigsprints.com/">Craigs Prints</a>: More and more sites seem to keep popping up... This one claims a one yard minimum.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.jbctextiles.com">JBC Textiles</a>: Two yard minimum (supposedly).</li><br /></ul><br /><br />Sites that print fabric and make a finished product (not really in any particular order). This isn't an area I've really looked at, but have instead found in the process of looking for fabric specific places.<br /><ul> <li><a href="http://www.roomsbyyou.com">Rooms By You</a>: household items mostly, such as baby blankets, duvet covers, dog bedding, bean bags, laptop sleeve, etc.</li><br /> <li><a href="http://www.printedfabricproducts.com/">Printed Fabric Products</a>: Pillows, blankets, wall hangings.</li><br /></ul>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-3857441696731640642010-08-24T17:10:00.000-07:002010-09-01T21:32:50.089-07:00More Fabric Design and Spoonflower ContestsI decided after the tessellation contest result (and looking at the winners of that contest and previous contests) that my design has too many colors, or too much variety of colors. So I set out to learn something about fabric design. I borrowed "The Fabric Design Book: Understanding and creating patterns using texture, shape, and color." by Karin Jerstorp and Eva Köhlmark from my local library [<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=GDyeGwAACAAJ&dq=%22The%20Fabric%20Design%20Book:%20Understanding%20and%20creating%20patterns%20using%20texture,%20shape,%20and%20color&source=gbs_book_other_versions">GoogleBooks</a>,<a href="http://gan.doubleclick.net/gan_click?lid=41000000032588482&pubid=21000000000299484">B&N</a>,<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0756764300?ie=UTF8&tag=neqinmod-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0756764300">Amazon</a>]. At this point I've still only made my way through about a third of the book; I keep getting distracted with working on new designs.<br /><br />Around this time Spoonflower held another contest; this time to design a one yard cheater quilt. Inspired by Gerry Smeltzer's "Black-White and Chartreuse" quilt at PIQF (2009), I decided to make something similar with a slightly more 'steampunk-ish' flair. Here's a picture of "Black-White and Chartreuse", which I am in love with still (I like the color green, especially lime green):<br /><div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TPBeHQjTnjBcTCQO_ObrP7uDuo6qe6LV-IKrK30QZfM?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/SuiiaI9WAMI/AAAAAAAALFw/3caXtIyyda8/s288/PA160406.JPG" /></a></div><br />As an exercise from the book, or based on a couple exercises, I decided to make a fabric collection using variations of a single element and a restricted palette. For the design element I started with two simple gears, then used a quarter or half of the gear as the basic element. For the palette I picked a single hue of brown, then selected three saturation levels and four intensity levels at each saturation level. The final design set didn't fit in a single 'collection' on Spoonflower's site, so its separated into two collections: <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/collections/1707">Variations on a Gear</a> and <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/collections/1726">Gear Flowers</a>. <br /><br />I then used a subset of these designs to make my gear quilt cheater print (click the image to get to the Spoonflower page). <br /><div align=center><a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/278039"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THWz5iVVq2I/AAAAAAAAMTs/CUvRWECsrME/s288/20100629_-_Cheater_Quilt_V3_w_Hem_highres.jpg"/></a></div><br />I concluded after the contest that Spoonflower's contest voting display favors somewhat simple designs, especially when the contest entries are for a full yard of fabric. Some of the top designs looked great on the screen, when the image was only 2 inches wide, but after thinking about what the design would look like on a full yard of fabric I noticed that at least one design featured flowers (or something) where the center of the flower consisted of a plain white circle 8 inches in diameter.<br /><br />I only managed to come in 40th out of 127, with 225 votes, in the Cheater Print contest, with my gear quilt. I've since made a reduced version to be printed out as a table place-mat, but I haven't gotten around to having it printed yet (and its one of my few designs that isn't yet viewable by the public).<br /><br />I made several designs using the Summer Flowers color theme: <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/collections/1721">Summer Flowers collection</a>. I entered <a ref="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/278937">"Diamond Leaf Scroll"</a> in the weekly contest. The design came in 83rd out of 136, with 91 votes.<br /><br />Well, then I got excited when they announced a weekly contest with the theme of "Desert"; I grew up in the desert (the Mojave Desert to be specific). Desert is such a broad theme, however. I thought about doing desert wild flowers, but I don't actually have any personal pictures of them (or at least not any digital ones). So I asked my dad if he had suggestions for a desert themed fabric (he's an art teacher in the Washington D.C. area, and he's really good at thinking up interesting ideas for pictures). He said I should pick something from the desert with a nice pattern, and suggested the Mojave Green (a diamond back rattlesnake), and then he suggested having it kind of appear out of the background (my interpretation, not his words).<br /><br />Since it sounded like a cool idea I decided to try it. I had some difficulty trying to figure out how to draw the snake in the computer. Then I had some difficulty trying to figure out scales. The scales ended up being a bump map pattern in GIMP, followed by some back and forth between Inkscape and GIMP to get a scaly skin: I made an image of a single scale in Inkscape, then imported it into GIMP and created a beveled image (I think I went with beveled rather than bump map), then created a set of scales in the diamond back pattern using Inkscape, imported the textured image of a scale as a pattern into Inkscape and applied it to each scale in the diamond, and finally exported the bitmap so that it could be imported into Inkscape as a fill pattern.<br /><table align=center><tr><td valign=top>Scale exported from Inkscape:</td><td valign=top> Saved from GIMP, and imported into Inkscape as a fill pattern:</td><td valign=top>Exported from Inkscape, and bitmap imported as a fill pattern:</td></tr><tr><br /><td><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 55px; height: 75px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpCoLnavppc9ffUMxPvCsxpceBh_dZWfuWMdcxAvDbewcslVFpzAJcaGUdjm1-S5nahPFOyaTyo6-xLKlhmUwKj66OqOoKXiYU7MjCqXArwAgQ6VdRTMMKifu2aX9vOR_wWp3hN9KGlgM/s200/DiamondScaleRounded-Head.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5509571976804661282" /></td><br /><td><br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 55px; height: 75px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaw4KwJZUP1fFigemgPt7-vA-dAVgOD_vBdeKxsNffOptPU233Z4WWdOf4w0Vl2W_eWj2U5WkL-1z28n4TlLx_FkQO76D8BD640VdCmJkJ_Xwg0XHXDGG2Ut1hSNQ5xKUIyj-F4niT1Vc/s200/DiamondScaleRounded-Head-Beveled14.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5509572164982878290" /></td><br /><td><br /><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 140px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZWR7BmmBsCQGR6nlZayaxP35k-Ex0G4UboNdvJzMWB8TPbL-im40f3qJMcAWMscqB3LD90zMkuz8pb2ESA6Nh9TE53FhnCx9_fJ77knePcCGMfu6cq3gcuJARdwbQAkJooQ3K3Xx3Rs4/s200/Back+Diamond+Pattern+3+-+25dpi.png" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5509572171014565442" /></td></tr></table><br /><br />I then found a public domain image snake and laid out the diamond pattens, then filled in the extra spaces with solid scales, and finally took the whole coiled snake and laid it on top of a plain diamond filled area in GIMP. (Then I fiddled with some gradients to make the snake pop out a little more relative to the background, especially the head.) And I had <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric/298402">my contest entry</a>.<br /><br />It came in a disappointing 70th out of 119, with 70 votes. I've concluded that crafters like cute happy images. And snakes are generally not considered cute, or happy. (As a side note, my dad said most of the contest entries looked childish, which made me feel better. I suppose artists and crafters have different mindsets.) The winning entry was probably my favorite contest entry (after my own of course); even I like cute.<br /><br />Given my degrading contest performance, I've decided to stop designing fabrics for Spoonflower contest, at least until something really good comes up. (I haven't stopped designing fabrics, but they're for other projects.)Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-12627950250841969332010-08-23T15:30:00.000-07:002010-08-26T01:33:06.957-07:002010 - The BeginningWell, I signed up to go to Costume College again this year, but I was less ambitious this year, and only had one planned outfit (that still failed to get made). This year, however, I got distracted with <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com">Spoonflower</a>.<br /><br />My fabric design journey started when Spoonflower held a tessellation contest, as one of their weekly contests back in April. Well, I remember making tessellations back in junior high school, and I also remember it being fun then. Back then, it was somewhat annoying to get all the edges exactly duplicated, but I figured the computers would be great for that part now. So I learned about cloning in <a href="http://www.inkscape.org">Inkscape</a>. And since I had recently been to Hawaii for a computer science/bioinformatics conference, and seen some sea turtles while travelling around Oahu, I figured I would use them as the basis for my design.<br /><div align=center><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THWckGnDYZI/AAAAAAAAMRw/Pq3ZBW3t6gI/s288/P3270896.JPG"/></div><br /><br />So I complete by design in time for the contest and submitted it. <a href="http://www.spoonflower.com/fabric_items/new?design_id=210382&show_comments=true">Link to my design on Spoonflower.</a> I managed to come in 15th out of 60 entries, with 289 votes. Since it was my first fabric design ever, I figured that's pretty decent. Of course, I had to get it printed out as well, I was so excited about "my-first-fabric-design". (The lighting was a bit uneven in the picture, my curtains kept blowing around and I put the fabric on an uneven surface.)<br /><div align=center><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/-P2k0NqwHE98dPtBWnX7LO8BqJuqcSNCCJ02Kko9YTI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/__UyI9xeDZT8/THWff07w-vI/AAAAAAAAMTc/rfDLY56TDqY/s288/P8250063.JPG" /></a></div>Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-75979826310443536782010-08-21T12:34:00.000-07:002010-08-25T15:30:04.355-07:00A Changing BlogThis blog has fallen by the wayside as I became increasingly busy with life. I'm nearly finished with my dissertation now, and hopefully in the future I will have more time to browse sites and post links to examples of dress (and undress) that I find interesting. In the short term though, this blog is likely to become filled with projects I am working on (or thinking of working on).Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-64820444937564549362008-09-08T13:57:00.000-07:002008-09-08T13:57:00.679-07:00Another link collection ...This is primarily an effort to clear out some the things I've bookmarked and saved. First, Outi Pyy has several posts on steampunk fashion on her blog, Outsapop Trashion: <a href="http://www.outsapop.com/2008/06/back-to-future-steampunk-inspiration_17.html">Steampunk Inspiration</a> and <a href="http://www.outsapop.com/2008/06/steampunk-fashion-part-1-clothes.html">Steampunk Fashion</a>. Also, I think this <a href="http://www.outsapop.com/2008/05/suits-you-girl-reconstruction-by-laupre.html">half a bustle skirt and ruffled vest</a> is kind of cute.<br /><br />From the 2008 Anime Expo, La Carmina has a <a href="http://www.carmenyuen.com/blog/post/index/238/KERA-MAGAZINE-JROCK-AND-LOLITA-SNAPS-POSTED-FROM-2008-AX-ANIME-EXPO-IN-LA">post containing a few costume images</a>, one of which is a really strange frog-dragon combo (as best I can tell), and another of which is a steampunk lolita look. While I wouldn't think I'd like the short skirt, steampunk explorer look, the outfit comes off really well.<br /><br />Blakopal on LJ is (was) <a href="http://blakopal.livejournal.com/2530.html">working on a steampunk jacket</a>. Its a short jacket, bust length, but it goes really nicely with her corset.<br /><br />Pamela of Needle Tatting and Other Stuff, has some really lovely tatted necklaces, masks, and other items. She also held a <a href="http://totusmel.blogspot.com/2008/08/and-winners-are.html">'Tatting is not a lost art' contest</a> not too far back; all the entries can be found in the flickr photostream, <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/tattingchallenge/">Tatting Challenge</a>. Relevant to this post are a few of the entries: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/joeireed/2717326508/in/pool-tattingchallenge">a classy mini hat</a> by Joie Reed, a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/madartjewelry/2584610991/in/pool-tattingchallenge">necklace timepiece</a> by Madelyn Smoak (MadArtJewelery), and a <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/ye_wenchie/2615405912/in/pool-tattingchallenge">hair stick</a> by Brettney Perr. The timepiece and the hair stick came in third in the contest. The hair stick is probably one of my favorites, but I also really like the hat.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-2358625890665562962008-09-05T15:37:00.000-07:002008-09-05T15:37:01.440-07:00Bustle DressesThreadBanger has a series of episodes on Steampunk gear: <a href="http://www.threadbanger.com/episode/iST_20080826">goggles</a>, <a href="http://www.threadbanger.com/episode/iST_20080828">gloves</a>, <a href="http://www.threadbanger.com/episode/THR_20080829">outfit</a>. I didn't have the patience to listen through their talking, since they're all video episodes, but they had a link to <a href="http://www.bustledress.com/cgi-bin/z.pl/index.html">Bustledress</a>. I haven't browsed through all their listings yet, but I did come across this <a href="http://www.bustledress.com/cgi-bin/z.pl/item.lisa1091.html">Purple Bustle Dress with White Lace</a> and this <a href="http://www.bustledress.com/cgi-bin/z.pl/item.kate4001.html">Garnet Reception Gown</a>. The skirt is kind of plain on the reception gown, but the jacket is awesome.<br /><br />Really, I don't know why I have this fondness for embroidered jackets when I have no intention of living anywhere that requires a jacket on a regular basis. I guess its for the cooler evenings (if they ever actually cool off around here).Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2524272948903820509.post-48412835545656627242008-09-03T13:14:00.000-07:002008-09-03T17:17:44.374-07:00Day to Day CostumesCostume_9to5 is a community on LiveJournal. It doesn't get much traffic, but the other day Liz posted some <a href="http://community.livejournal.com/costume_9to5/3472.html">pictures of outfits</a>. My favorites were <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21731007@N05/2532880772/in/set-72157603434524281/">this steampunk feeling jacket and skirt combo</a> and <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/21731007@N05/2722800865/in/set-72157603434524281/">this outfit, especially the jacket</a>.<br /><br />And in the same vein, both <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/steampunkgear/">Steampunk Gear</a> and <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/steampunkfashion/">Steampunk Fashion</a> make for some nice browsing.Aihttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08842495982874672752noreply@blogger.com0